I love surfing.

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I love surfing.

I can’t help it. I really, really, really love the bitter and the sweet of my life; the “l’amaro e il dolce”. Even when things seem so incredibly fucked up things always get better and because of the fucked up stuff, I appreciate the good times so much more.

You gotta learn to surf or you die.

And I’m digging the ride, man.

I fall in love, I fall out of love.

My car breaks, I buy a new one.

I finish a job, I start a new one.

I lose a friend, I make 3 more.

It’s all about letting go and just experiencing it.

I love the moments of grace when I remember this and am able to tell myself:

“Back off, Warchild…seriously.”

Thanks to all of you who help me experience this.

❤ xoxo

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